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The Olive
Trail
" The food we
eat is the tangible evidence of a people’s culture – it’s the story of that
culture."
Address: 'Wild Roses', Triq
il-Madonna tal-Abbandunati, Wardija, Malta
Tel: 356 7958 2294
Email:
matty@vol.net.mt
Maltese olive oil
revivalist Sam Cremona
There are many
reasons to visit the Islands besides a quest for Malta’s new heritage wines.
There’s the rich history, excellent scuba diving, sailing, hiking, and
nightclubbing which all draw tourists.
Sure, but how about
tracing back the ancient roots of the Island's olive groves, another piece of
the jigsaw puzzle that makes up Malta’s Mediterranean identity.
Looking at the landscape today, it's hard to believe that olive trees once
covered Malta. Indeed, many village and town names on both Malta and Gozo
translate as 'Well of Olives', 'Hill of the Presses' or simply 'Olives' but most
of the trees were uprooted and this deforestation cost the islands dear.
Olive fanatic Sammy Cremona is trying to reverse the damage and make Malta once
again an island of the olive.
The ideal time to meet up with him to learn all about his project is at the time
of pressing in September at his farm in Wardija, limits of St. Paul's Bay. The
grounds also house an authentic stone oven and eating establishment serving
Maltese food. The establishment is quite unique in the Maltese Islands.
So why not call Sam
to clamber together with him over Phoenician tombs of sailors from Tyre, Sidon
and, later, Carthage, who never returned to their homelands and lay forgotten
beneath wild evergreen carob trees, to stride through sweet smelling garrigue -
an undergrowth of wild thyme and lavender - to visit olive groves of twisted,
sinewy olive trees which have been scientifically dated at around 1,800 years
old: Roman trees, then.
A new olive-oil industry could be blossoming here.#
For the books:
'Cooking with Maltese Olive Oil' is recommended reading. It comes to life when
you get a chance to meet its author, food writer: Matty Cremona, Sam's wife, at
the olive farm in Wardija. Another good but more general read is Carol
Drinkwater's book 'The Olive Route', published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson.#
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Wardijafest
Village Food Celebrations
Check out 'Wardijafest', a celebration of food produced in Wardija, co-organised
by the 'Wardija Residents Association', usually held in April. The festival
features Sam Cremona’s Maltese olive oil among other local delicacies.Funds
raised from the event will go to 'Dun Manwel Attard' school for students with
special needs.
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Sam Cremona |
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How to get to Sam:
You drive up the hill to Wardija from the
Burmarrad end, turn left at the top, pass a school to your right, get to
Castello dei Baroni further along on the right and drive up the narrow road,
past a little chapel wedged in on the right. The Cremona's house is on your
left where the road widens past the chapel.
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